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Paying a Visit to King Richard III in Leicester

11/27/2014

It's no secret by now that I have a newfound fascination with the last Plantagenet king, Richard III. Maybe it's because of the discovery of his skeleton in 2012; maybe it's because of his thrilling portrayal by Aneurin Barnard in "The White Queen"; or maybe it's because there's a lot of excitement around his name in England right now, and I'm surrounded by it! Most likely, it's a combination of these factors, but in any case, living in England at the moment, I couldn't possibly pass up the opportunity to visit the new Richard III Visitor Centre in Leicester last weekend. While my friend from the States was visiting (her first time in the UK!), I dragged her along with me to this town I had never visited, and embarked on a Richard III-themed adventure.

Leicester was surprisingly easy to navigate. Thank you to all the Richard III signs and banners throughout the city, enthusiastically pointing us towards the Visitor Centre and Cathedral! Once we arrived on St. Martin's Street, I was giddy with excitement. Richard III's statue (The Warrior King) stands just in front of Leicester Cathedral, directly opposite the Visitor Centre - all cozily and conveniently placed together, and the first thing my friend and I did was take pictures with the statue. We scurried over to the Visitor Centre, which is beautiful and welcoming - sand-colored stones and wide glass doors inviting guests in to see the Richard III gift shop! I presented my pre-paid tickets and we were in (about an hour earlier than I had bought the tickets for!).
The first level of the centre is a tribute to Richard III's life. It's the historical exhibition, beginning with a great introductory video starring Richard's mother, Cecily Neville, the Earl of Warwick (the Kingmaker), his wife, Anne Neville, and his brother King Edward IV. All of these characters pave the way for Richard's story to be told, showing us visitors that there were many people who played an active and vital role in his story. Walking through the exhibit to the right, we saw a timeline of events beginning with Edward IV's triumph over King Henry VI and Warwick's assistance in bringing the Yorks to the throne of England. Richard is introduced as the Duke of Gloucester - loyal youngest brother to the king and skilled warrior. Much of this part of the exhibit illustrates the politics of the time, giving a great introduction to the Wars of the Roses.

The exhibition quickly turns to Richard as King, and I think the centre does a great job of showing why Richard took the throne. The timeline extending down the wall shows the steps being taken in 1483, upon King Edward IV's death - the announcement that the "heir," Edward V, as illegitimate and his parents' marriage null and void, the convening of Parliament, and the decision of the council that Richard, Duke of Gloucester was, by default, the only plausible heir to the throne. This depiction on the right shows Richard and his wife, Anne, processing through Westminster upon their Coronation in July 1483. Note the white boar banner - one of Richard's personal symbols. Of course, some mention is made of the Princes in the Tower - but the centre doesn't go into much detail (wisely, I think). The message from this section is that it is unclear who killed the boys - and indeed, if they even died in the Tower.
The exhibit expands on Richard's short reign - his contributions to parishes, schools, publishing, and the arts. A beautiful stained glass image of Richard, Anne, and their only son, Edward, is displayed just before the exhibit takes a turn towards Bosworth.
Arguably the best part of the exhibit, the bit on Bosworth and Richard's defeat was incredibly well done. The centre does a fantastic job of explaining the many details of the battle - including weapons used, individuals fighting for the Yorks and Lancastrians (and independents!), the armor worn, etc. One can spend as much time as they'd like reading about every last detail, which I appreciated. One of the most clever sections was an area that showed Henry Tudor on one side, Richard on the other, and Lord Thomas Stanley and his brother between them both. A sword hangs at Stanley's image and swings back and forth like a pendulum, to illustrate that he was the deciding figure in the outcome of the battle. If Stanley and his army had fought for York, Richard probably would have come out triumphant. But as we know, Stanley waited to see who was struggling in combat, and once Richard was clearly on the losing end, he declared for Tudor - thus swinging the pendulum of fate decidedly in his favor. A very clever bit of the exhibit!
Complete with wall projections of the battle scene, one cannot help but be transfixed as they walk through this area of the exhibit, hearing the sounds of swords clashing and horses' hooves pounding. By the end of the exhibit, of course, Richard is dead and visitors can see a beautiful image of Henry Tudor being crowned on the battlefield, with Richard's naked corpse carelessly draped over a horse - ready to be processed through the streets of Leicester.

After a quick stop in the centre's delicious cafe (cottage pie!), we headed upstairs for the next exhibit. This one detailed the modern discoveries surrounding Richard III - which, as we know, are plentiful! Beginning with Richard's modern-day reputation, the exhibit showed the many actors who have portrayed him in film, TV, and stage productions, and included quotes from many recognizable names about their feelings towards Richard. The exhibit moved on to the discovery of Richard's skeleton in the car park (upon which the centre is built) - and in that area there was tons to see and do! Complete with first-hand accounts from Philippa Langley and Michael Jones (two of the archaeologists and experts in the excavation), this part of the exhibit detailed the day-by-day work from 2012, pictures from the site, and objects like boots and University of Leicester vests worn during the process. This was fabulously done - lots of reading! - but the perfect way to allow visitors a chance to feel a part of the experience. Once we got through the section on the discovery, the exhibit took a turn towards the scientific. Using touch screens, visitors are able to practice matching DNA strands, analyzing and aging bones, and reconstructing a face using those bones. Through each section, the story of how Richard's skeleton was identified is played out and illustrated in a way that really helps you understand what the process must have been like. As you can see above, I was delighted to gaze upon the reconstructed face of Richard III, which I had seen many times in pictures. How surreal and indescribably cool. By the end of the exhibit - after walking through the excavation and discovery, analyzing the skeleton and war wounds, matching DNA, aging the remains, and reconstructing the king's face - the official press release detailing the finding of Richard III in Leicester played on the wall. A happy conclusion to an absolutely brilliant area of the centre!

The final walk through the Visitor Centre leads you to a quiet, serene, and contemplative room, built exactly atop the location Richard's skeleton was found. Looking through the clear floor, you can see precisely the area excavated to reveal those prized bones, and a light projection pops up every so often (as seen in this photo) to illustrate the exact position in which Richard was discovered. Absolutely breathtaking to stand so close to the actual location, and to imagine what it must have been like to be one of the people walking around on the site, taking part in the discovery! I can't even imagine, but standing there looking at the spot was both a chilling and heart-warming experience at the same time. It's so special that the Visitor Centre was able to keep the location as it is, so that guests can imagine the excavation for themselves.
Of course, it's nearly impossible for me to express all the wonderful things this centre has to offer its visitors, and I've left out a few things in this post. On the first floor there is also a fantastic art exhibition with paintings by Graham Turner - an incredibly talented man who was inspired by a visit to Bosworth Battlefield, and now has a huge collection of Richard III-inspired creations. If you walk clockwise through the room, you can see paintings from the beginning of Edward IV's reign, all the way through the Battle of Bosworth. All of these are for sale through Graham's website, and it is the largest collection of his work! Postcard versions of his paintings are also available in the gift shop (I bought three!). This is definitely a section of the centre not to be missed!
In addition to all I've said, there is plenty more to take in and explore for yourself - so don't let my review be the closest you ever get to this fabulous Visitor Centre! I highly encourage a visit, and afterwards I also encourage a walk down the Richard III Walking Trail - sold at the gift shop for 50p or downloadable online. This trail walks you through Medieval Leicester, showing you buildings and locations that would have been familiar to Richard in his time - both on his progresses and visits to the city, as well as during his final few days.

Locations on this trail include the site of the Blue Boar Inn, reportedly where Richard stayed on his final night before riding into battle. Legend says it was named the White Boar Inn at the time (for Richard's symbol), but changed hastily after his defeat in tribute to the Earl of Oxford, one of Henry Tudor's main supporters. The trail also leads over Bow Bridge, which replaced the medieval bridge Richard traveled across on his way to Bosworth, and bears beautiful white roses and Ricardian badges. Guildhall, a beautiful medieval building near Leicester Cathedral, is also a stop - as are the medieval Trinity Hospital, Leicester Castle site (where Richard would stay on progresses), the Church of St. Mary de Castro (where Richard would have worshipped), and two notable gateways to the religious precinct of Newarke - one through which Richard's corpse would have been processed through with Tudor's army, on his way for burial at Greyfriars Church. My friend and I raced around the city to see all of these locations as the sun was going down - and it was the perfect way to see Leicester, in my opinion. A great way to get a feel for the 15th-century version of this modern city, and to walk in Richard's footsteps as much as one possibly can. We ended the wonderful day at The Last Plantagenet pub on Granby Street (it seemed the most appropriate!) and said goodbye to the beautiful city of Leicester as we boarded the train back to Oxford.

An incredible day trip, to say the least - and how could I forget to include a bit about Leicester Cathedral? Seen in this photo, the Cathedral is as beautiful as I imagined, even with the construction work being done inside in preparation for the king's reinterment in March. Inside, I was able to peek in the window looking into the area of Richard's tomb, and despite the equipment and mess surrounding it, it was surreal to look in and know that his mortal remains will rest there in just a few months. The Cathedral seems to be bursting with excitement about the situation, with banners and posters all over. I will definitely be making a trip back in March to see the final result. How could I miss it?
Not only was this an exciting "touristy" day out, but it was educational for me as well. As a Masters student at Oxford focusing on 16th century reputations and opinions of Edward IV and Richard III, this was one of the most exciting locations for me to visit. I feel closer to this period of Plantagenet (and Tudor) history after visiting Leicester, and I am so grateful for the opportunity. Already I am looking forward to my trip back in March to look upon Richard's coffin before it is reinterred, and I can promise my readers another blog post after that occasion. For my UK fans, I urge you to make a day trip out of this Visitor Centre and step into Richard III's world for yourself! International fans, I hope you are also able to experience this place for yourself at some point. What an exciting time to be Tudor Enthusiasts right now… our history is coming to life in a way that it hasn't in centuries! And the Richard III Visitor Centre is making that happen in a beautiful, educational, and inspiring way.

Long live King Richard III! He is certainly alive and well in Leicester.

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Windsor Castle - A British History Lover's Wonderland

10/12/2014

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Those of you who follow my Tudor Enthusiast Facebook page may know that I visited Windsor Castle just over a week ago, so firstly I'd like to apologize for the lateness of this post. I've spent the last week settling into life as a Graduate Student at Oxford and as you can imagine there are quite a few things to do! As of now, I'm happily settled and feeling perfectly at home here in my adorable little flat with my lovely flatmates. My work has begun and I'm taking time right now over breakfast to procrastinate on my class readings and instead share this wonderful review of Windsor with you.
So, where to start? The title of this post says it all… Windsor Castle is a British History Lover's Wonderland. You can't go wrong with the oldest and largest inhabited castle in the world, can you? Well, even I, who had high expectations of the visit, was incredibly impressed by the grandeur and statement of the castle and its beautiful grounds.

Perfect weather for a trip to Windsor… it was pouring down rain when my mom and I took the train from Oxford to Windsor, and as soon as we stepped through the shopping center at Windsor & Eton Central, I was blown away by the castle itself. Standing no more than fifty feet away from me were the huge, sprawling stone walls, battlements, and towers. The castle was significantly larger than I realized, and I could see the grey stones winding their way through the distance. I absolutely could not wait to get inside.
I was happy to receive an audio guide from the main ticketing center, with a very warm welcome recording from Prince Charles. As my mom and I walked up to the main entrance of the castle, I think we were both in awe. Our audio guides told us about the arrow loops in the walls, used by defenders of the castle, and explained the many interesting sights we would be visiting. I was especially excited to view the Royal Apartments from across the courtyard, where Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II still spends many of her weekends.
Now, before I get carried away, let's take a look at some of the history of the castle… Windsor is the product of about one thousand years of development - beginning with William the Conqueror, who founded and established the outline for the castle, and including Edward III, who rebuilt it in the Gothic style architecture, Charles II who refurbished the existing style into the fashionable Baroque, and George IV, who restored the romantic ideals of castle architecture and sumptuously furnished many rooms in the rich, impressive 'modern' style within those ancient walls. I think this is one of the things I liked most about Windsor - every room tells a different story and allows you to view the personal tastes of different monarchs. And those tastes span hundreds of years! While you may prefer Gothic to Baroque, or ancient to modern, you get a taste of everything at Windsor, and that is so special in a building so old.

For our intents and purposes, of course, the Tudor involvement at Windsor is the most fascinating, right? Let's move onto Henry VIII then, who left several notable additions on Windsor Castle. At the time of his death in 1547, Henry owned 60 houses and palaces, and used Windsor quite frequently. One of his most noticeable additions is the 'King Henry VIII Gate' at the bottom of the Lower Ward, where visitors exit the castle grounds. He also built a terrace along the Upper Ward in 1533-1534, which he used to shoot targets from and to watch the hunt below in the park. Of course, Henry is also buried at Windsor Castle, in the gorgeous St. George's Chapel. I suppose we can say (if for no other reason) that this is a great reason for any Tudor Enthusiast to visit Windsor Castle. I'll get to his burial spot a little later on in this post…
In 1549, King Edward VI complained of Windsor Castle: "Methinks I am in a prison; here be no galleries, nor no gardens to walk in." Clearly, he was not a fan of the castle as his father was, but his life and reign were both too short to have any impact on the design. His half-sister Queen Mary I, however, was able to incorporate her coat of arms - together with her Spanish husband King Philip II's - on the belfry tower (known now as the Mary Tudor Tower). By the time Queen Elizabeth I came to the throne, Windsor was in need of repair, and in the 1570s a campaign of work was undertaken. Henry VIII's terrace walk was described as "in verie great ruyn" and the western end of St. George's Hall was "very ould ruinous and far oute of order redie to fale downe." Thankfully, all was renewed, remodeled, and refitted.

Not to say I didn't care for the other parts of the castle (because I really did!), but for my Tudor blog post I should stick to the Tudor sites. If you do happen to visit Windsor, I encourage you to check out ALL the castle offers - the State Apartments, where you can see the work of individual monarchs and their personal tastes, as well as where current state diplomats and royal guests come to dine with the Queen. Another great exhibit is Queen Mary's Dolls' House, which was built for her in 1924 and serves as a beautiful miniature replica of an aristocratic London house - complete with running water, electricity, and objects made by designers, jewelers, and artists! There was a temporary exhibit just outside the State Apartments as well, which housed many examples of primary written documents from past monarchs - including an accounts book handwritten by Princess Elizabeth Tudor. To see her exquisite signature up close was surreal.
But the main focal point for me in my visit to Windsor was St. George's Chapel, seen on the left. This impressive church is where several notable historical figures (including our very own Henry VIII) are buried, and to stand so close to their graves is an awe-inspiring experience. Those who have already seen pictures of Henry's gravesite know that it is nothing special… nothing like the grand sarcophagus he had planned to be erected in his honor in the Henry VII chapel at Westminster. In fact, those plans fell through and were never completed, so he now lies underneath a subtle black marble slab, sharing tomb space with his beloved wife Jane Seymour, the beheaded King Charles I, and one of Queen Anne's infant children. This marble slab, found in the quire of the chapel, would be easy to miss, but it was the very reason I wanted so much to visit Windsor. I couldn't allow myself to step over it as so many other visitors did while walking through the chapel… to do so seemed too irreverent for a king who - for all of his wrongdoing - is still such an important, influential, and special part of Britain's history. Instead, I sat a moment and looked at it, thinking what an ironic twist of fate it is that his grave marker is no more regal than Anne Boleyn's in the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula in the Tower of London.
But this spot in the chapel is not the only exciting Tudor area. Above the quire there is a wooden oriel window that was built for Queen Katherine of Aragon, so that she could view services taking place below. (If you look at the picture to the left of the chapel, the window is situated at the far end above the alter and on the left side). How interesting that Katherine's window is situated so near to where her royal husband now rests.
Along the quire there are stalls for the Knights of the Order of the Garter, and of course Henry VIII's stall plate can be spotted towards the back. A very kind guide let me through the roped off area so I could have a closer look. The stall plate is from when Henry was still a young boy, and his name reads "The Duke of York." A stained glass portrait of King Henry VIII can be seen in the South Quire Aisle, and his coat of arms hangs in the ceiling above the organ loft, as well as the intertwined initials "HK" for Henry and Katherine. There is Tudor history ALL over this chapel!

I can't talk about St. George's Chapel without mentioning King Edward IV and Elizabeth Woodville. Yes, I know they are Plantagenets, but as I have recently become very interested in that time period as well, I was incredibly excited to stumble upon their shared tomb just to the left of the quire. Although their marble marker is taller and slightly more eye-catching than Henry's, it is still relatively subtle, thanks to damage done during the English Civil War. In any case, if you're at all interested in the Plantagenets and you pay a visit to this chapel, don't miss their tomb!
I could probably go on and on about how wonderful Windsor Castle was, but this post is already quite long enough. I hope I've given some good insight as to why this location is such a treat for any Tudor Enthusiast, and if you haven't already visited in the past, I hope you'll consider it for the future. While much of the castle itself has been modernized through the centuries (and perhaps little of the Tudor footprint still stands within the main castle walls), have no doubt that the Tudors did leave their mark all over this place, and the stones of the castle themselves tell a most interesting history of the many monarchs who have called Windsor home.
All in all, another amazing trip for the Tudor Enthusiast. I'm so happy to share my experience with you and I'm already looking forward to wherever my Tudor travels lead me next. Now I suppose I should return to my assigned reading about the Elizabethan Aristocracy… but I will leave you to reading and daydreaming about this British History Lover's Wonderland, the incredible Windsor Castle.

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Visiting Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon

9/23/2012

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Before I even arrived in England for the term, I was told by people who had visited that I absolutely must see Stratford-upon-Avon, a small historic town in Warwickshire. Of course, I put it on the list of places to go, and was able to make the trip yesterday with a flatmate. It was absolutely beautiful and rich with history - and a plethora of Tudor architecture, which was, of course my favorite part.
Not only is Stratford-upon-Avon the birthplace and home of William Shakespeare - its origins actually go back roughly 800 years! With Anglo-Saxon origins, it grew into a market town during Medieval times and has remained like that ever since. The architecture and overall style of the town seems very much the same as it was in the 1500's, and there's plenty of the black-and-white-beamed building to satisfy any Tudor Enthusiast's craving.
I took plenty of pictures of them, and as you can see from the pictures, I could not get enough of the architecture...

I was really excited to see Marlowe's Restaurant - named after a contemporary playwright and poet of William Shakespeare named Christopher "Kit" Marlowe, whom I have blogged about in the past. Other cafes and shops with historical/Shakespearean names included: The Hathaway Tearooms, Othello's Cafe, Iago's Jewelry, and the Pen & Parchment Pub.

My favorite part of the day was visiting Holy Trinity Church - the location of William Shakespeare's baptism and funeral, and where he is now buried beside his wife and family. This was quite possibly the most beautiful church I have ever been in. It had the grandeur and elegance of Westminster Abbey, combined with the intimacy and quaintness of your average country parish church. It was welcoming, comfortable, and awe-inspiring - the stained glass itself was reason enough to visit, and the altar was stunning. We were also lucky enough to get there as they were preparing for a wedding, so we were able to hear the organ and trumpets getting ready for the service. There's something about being in a church while music is playing that makes the experience even more powerful.
There was a donation of 50 pence required to visit the high altar and see the actual grave of Shakespeare (which we paid, of course), and I could have stayed in that spot admiring the memorials and gorgeous altar all day! Unfortunately, because of the wedding, we didn't have a long time to sit and contemplate the beauty of the church, but we were lucky to be able to see it at all - Had we arrived a few minutes later, they may not have let us in. Here are some pictures from inside the church...

After visiting the church, we made our way to three of the historical houses in Stratford - Hall's Croft, New House, and the birthplace of Shakespeare. Hall's Croft was my favorite, and the one that was most set up to look like a Tudor home. This was the home of Shakespeare's eldest daughter, Susanna, and her husband Dr. John Hall. Because of Dr. Hall's occupation, the two were quite wealthy and therefore were able to afford a home that was gorgeous and pretty big for the time period. The house is now, unfortunately, in a critical state - having experienced severe water damage and structural issues, and it is now receiving donations for conservation. The gardens, also, were absolutely extraordinary.
New House was actually not New House at all. It was the museum for what used to be New House - the marital home of William Shakespeare and his wife Anne Hathaway. The actual house was demolished in the 1700's and in its place was built a William & Mary-style home that has also since been demolished. Now, taking place in Stratford, is an archeological dig on the site of the house, and some of the things the archeologists have found so far are very interesting! They have found jewelry, combs, buttons, pieces of dinnerware, etc. - and it's all on display in the New House Museum.
Lastly, the birthplace of Shakespeare is probably the most visited and popular location in Stratford-upon-Avon. Of course, everyone wants to see the actual bedroom where one of the world's best writers was born. It's a beautiful house, and huge, considering the time period. The details in the woodwork are fantastic, and like Hall's Croft, it is designed to look as if the Shakespeare's live there today. The room where William was actually born was the largest room, and the actual window that was in the room during the time he was born is now on display in the house. It was very interesting to learn about how many other famous people have visited that house, and scratched their names into the windows in the house - forever leaving their mark on history. Some of these people include Thomas Jefferson, John Adams, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Charles Dickens, and Walter Scott.

Overall, it was a lovely day in Stratford-upon-Avon, and we were blessed with beautiful, sunny weather. Though we were only there for about four hours, we were able to see everything we wanted to and we got a good feel for the beautiful 16th-century Shakespearean town. The Tudor vibe was everywhere, and that made it a very worthwhile and exciting trip for me!

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My Tower of London Experience

9/18/2012

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For anyone who loves reading and learning about the lives of the Tudors, visiting the famous and imposing Tower of London is absolutely necessary. Where else can you feel the history, pain, and tragedy that those hundreds-of-years-old stone walls have seen? Where else can you walk in the exact footsteps that led notable 16th-century figures to their deaths, such as Queen Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey? There is only one Tower of London, and there doesn't need to be any other building to send on the same message to its visitors - The Tower is absolutely enough, and it's more than I ever imagined it could be.
Read about the Tower as much as you'd like, watch as many BBC and history programs about the Tower's history and creepy tales...but nothing will compare to the feeling you will get when arriving at the fortress itself - walking along the East Wall Walk and through the various towers that made up the terrifying prison that it came to be known as. I have to admit, though I was excited to visit the Tower this past Sunday with my study abroad group, nothing prepared me for the sense of awe I felt for the whole six hours I stayed there - (most people left after two hours).
Maybe it's because I'm such a big fan of Anne Boleyn and her tragic downfall. Perhaps that's why, from the moment I walked through the gates and saw the imposing White Tower in front of me, I felt an immediate sense of fear - but also amazement! The Tower is a site to be admired as much as it is to be afraid of, and of course since we as visitors to the Tower today cannot be held prisoner here like our 16th-century friends, the fear we feel now while walking around the grounds is from living vicariously through those who weren't as fortunate as we are. I, for one, can say I was imagining Anne, as well as other famous prisoners like Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey the entire time I was walking around. Two days after my visit, the Tower is still very much in my head, and the memories I made there are not likely to leave me for the rest of my life. This was the trip and visit of a lifetime - the absolute dream for a Tudor Enthusiast - and here are some of the highlights.

Just arriving at the Tower of London is an experience all its own. You can imagine how terrifying and grand it would have looked in the 1500's, when there wasn't a city built up around it and prisoners would have entered by boat via the Thames River and Traitor's Gate. From the moment we entered, we were greeted by cold stone walls as far as the eye could see. From the East Wall Walk, where we began our journey and walked through several of the towers and reading about the history in each of them, we had gorgeous views of the Thames and the famous Tower Bridge. We walked through the oldest parts of the tower, dating back to the 1000's-1200's and into King Edward I's personal bedroom and chapel. It was certainly interesting to think of the Tower as a palace for Edward, rather than the prison as we remember it, but that is how this section of the Tower was decorated - Absolutely beautiful. We finished the East Wall Walk and made our way to the Martin Tower, where the Crown Jewels are kept. This is definitely an exhibit not to be missed! On display in this tower are crowns, scepters, orbs, swords, and dress clothes for the monarch - though we cannot see the jewels from the Tudor dynasty, as those were melted down and destroyed during the English Civil War of the 17th-century by Oliver Cromwell. We can, however, see the coronation jewels made for King Charles II when he reclaimed his throne in 1660. These are the oldest items on display in the exhibit, and they are fantastic. We can also, of course, see what was used for the current Queen Elizabeth II, and the same crown, scepter, orb, sword, and coronation spoon that will be used for her successor. This is exhibit is lovely - So many gorgeous diamonds, rubies, pearls (some of which are suspected to be from Queen Elizabeth I's own jewelry!) - Magnificent coronation videos and music plays through the exhibit to really make you feel like you're present at the crowning of a new monarch. If you really like the exhibit, you can pop into the Jewel Shop nearby and drop a couple hundred pounds on really beautiful jewelry.

The area I most wanted to visit at the Tower was the scaffold site - the part of the Tower that gives it its reputation, as bloody and tragic as it may be. The memorial was understated and beautiful, sitting in the middle of Tower Green, very near to the Chapel of St Peter ad Vincula, where the executed were buried. This is such a powerful area of the Tower grounds - to stand here and contemplate the lives lost here on Tower Green is exactly why the Tower holds such an intense power over its visitors. Near this spot is where traitors to the crown climbed those wooden steps and spoke their last words before their bloody end. This is where Anne Boleyn made her stirring speech on 19 May 1536, beseeching those in attendance to pray for the king and for her soul as she repeated while on her knees "Lord Jesu receive my soul, to Christ I commend my soul." This is where sixteen-year-old Lady Jane Grey, the nine days' queen was marched out to her death on 12 February 1554 after being forced onto the throne in place of the bitter rightful Queen Mary I. This is where the Catholic martyr and hero Sir Thomas More joked with the executioner in 1535 and then said "Pick up thy spirits and be not afraid to do thine office. My neck is very short, take heed therefore thou strike not awry." This is where Henry VIII's fifth wife, the teenaged Catherine Howard may or may not have said to the crowd in 1542, "I die a Queen, but I would rather die the wife of Culpeper," referring to the man with whom she had been unfaithful to the King, and who had already been executed as well. This is where, in 1541, the elderly Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury ran from the executioner in the direction of the Bloody Tower, afraid of death, and was consequently hacked at by the axeman roughly eleven times before dropping dead. This is also where, during the Stuart Dynasty in 1685, the illegitimate son of Charles II, James Duke of Monmouth felt the tip of the axe with his fingers before kneeling, begging the axeman and paying him extra to strike cleanly and quickly - though in reality it took five blows and a dagger to sever his neck. All these victims and more spoke their final words and breathed their last breaths near the spot where this beautiful memorial stands today. The last things those people saw during their lives where the very walls that attract visitors to the Tower today. It is absolutely chilling and surreal to stand so close to such a spot.

One area of the Tower that I was really hoping to get to was the Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula - the main chapel of the Tower of London. However, I read upon entering the Tower that visitors can only see the inside if they are with a tour group led by a Yeoman Warder (or "Beefeater"). We did not join a group, though - Instead, the two girls I was with joined me for a walk around the grounds on our own, until we arrived at the Chapel and I desperately wanted to go in. But luck (or fate) was on our side! As we stood there admiring the Chapel from the outside, a Beefeater tour was approaching and getting ready to go in, so we snuck in with them. Turns out, we ended up front row, as close to the roped-off altar as possible. Unfortunately, pictures were not permitted inside the Chapel, but I can tell you that it was gorgeous, with memorials and plaques commemorating the executed everywhere we looked. From my seat on the left side of the aisle I could see the tile on the altar that marks the spot where Anne Boleyn is buried, right where the altar cloth touches the floor. Of course, when the Beefeater pointed that area out, my eyes filled with tears which I had to push back down quickly so as not to make a fool of myself! Also on the altar beside Anne lies her brother George, her sister-in-law Jane Rochford, Lady Jane Grey, and Catherine Howard. Beneath the stone wall on the altar is where James Scott, Duke of Monmouth is buried, and underneath the rest of the Chapel, even underneath where we sat, as well as in the large crypt on the left side, is where hundreds more bodies lay, unidentified. This Chapel was the highlight of my visit because it is not a place that every guest is able to see. To sit so close to where Anne Boleyn's remains lay was an overwhelmingly emotional experience for me. I cannot compare it to anything else!

Lastly, I must share what I saw in the White Tower, which is the location of the Royal Armory. Here, as soon as we walked in, was the impressive display of Henry VIII's jousting armor, from when he was in his early twenties (roughly 1511-1515). Here I saw the magnificence that was Henry VIII in his prime - not the old, sickly, obese man that he came to be. By looking at this armor, which was actually worn by the man himself, you can see the impressive figure that he was in his heyday - the man that was known as the "most handsome Prince in Christendom," and who attracted women easier than anyone else in England. THIS is Henry VIII as he would like to be remembered - the athletic, attractive, youthful monarch who had the world at his fingertips. This is an incredibly exciting thing to see, and to know that such armor actually belonged to him. Of course, when we moved down a few feet, we also saw his armor from 1540 (when he was about 49), and there you can clearly see the weight that was packed on in his later years. The view is nowhere near as impressive, but the thing that (quite laughably) is the focal point of the armor, is the enormous codpiece, which was completely in style during that time. Here in the Royal Armories, we also saw armor from other, later monarchs as well, and weapons that were used by all of them. Henry's own section of weapons was very interesting to see, but I have to say the armor was the most exciting for me. 500 year-old armor that belonged to King Henry VIII, that you can now stand only feet from - It doesn't get better than that.

I realize this blog post is getting incredibly long, and even still I haven't shared everything that I experienced at the Tower of London. In addition to all these highlights I've mentioned, my friends and I also got a kick out of a walking play, done by the Shakespeare Company. This was absolutely hilarious - designed for the whole family and taking place during the reign of Charles II. The actors in this were brilliant and ended up leading us around the Tower grounds, singing songs, involving the audience, and really making us feel a part of this (funny) history. At one point, I was laughing so much that a six-year old girl turned around and stared at me, as if she didn't understand what I found so amusing. It was then that I realized I was probably enjoying it too much! The gift shops at the Tower are also a must-see. Here, you can find just about anything you're looking for - books, jewelry, music, stuffed animals, and various other trinkets (varying widely in price). I bought myself a CD called "Music from Tudor England" - a collaboration of music written by Henry VIII and other court musicians, such as Thomas Tallis and Anthony Holborne. I also bought a King Henry VIII teddy bear for my little brother as a Christmas present - Don't tell him! The Tower had a great selection of food too - with the New Armouries Restaurant and the Raven Cafe, directly across from where the famous ravens are kept - Did I mention them? During Charles II's reign, he was told that if the resident raven population at the Tower where ever to leave, the realm of England would be at the mercy of invaders and surely fall. Because of this, the ravens have been an essential part of the Tower's (and England's) safety and well-being, ever since the 17th-century! Though this is surely just a fun myth, the raven keepers at the Tower hold some of the beautiful birds in cages, just to be safe. The others fly freely around the Tower, cawing eerily as they fly over and around the White Tower where they perch and watch visitors. They are an iconic and very famous aspect of the Tower and its history.
And so ends my wonderful re-living of my trip to the Tower of London - certainly the most exciting and emotional visit I have ever had in my life. Although I enjoyed Hampton Court Palace immensely also, nothing can quite compare to the Tower and the feelings and chills it gave me. This is an essential destination for any Tudor Enthusiast to visit. Though technically the tour books say you will spend one-to-two hours here, bear in mind that I arrived at the Tower at 11:00am and was having to pull myself away at 5:00pm. Even so, I could return to the Tower today and I'm sure I would still find just as much to do and see! Though this was absolutely one of the best days of my life, I suppose I should consider myself lucky that I am a visitor of the 21st-century as opposed to the 16th-century. Unlike those before me, I was able to leave the Tower gates at the end of the day, look back smiling, and looking forward to my next trip back, which I hope is not too far off.

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Christ Church College, Oxford

9/8/2012

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Although I'm an associate student at Jesus College, Oxford for the semester, I have to say I am a little envious of those who were placed in Christ Church College from my program. Don't get me wrong, I love that Jesus College was founded by Queen Elizabeth I and is the only Elizabethan Oxford school... but Christ Church College, which I walk by every single day on St. Aldates Road (and is much closer to my house than Jesus College), has ties to King Henry VIII, which in my mind is even more exciting! I did a little research on the beautiful school as soon as I got here, and then I read about it in Suzannah Lipscomb's book, "A Visitor's Companion to Tudor England." I have to say, I hadn't researched any of the colleges besides my own before arriving in Oxford, so I had no clue that Christ Church College was actually founded during the reign of King Henry VIII! Of course, it isn't the only Oxford college that can lay claim to being founded in the early 16th century, but it is the only college that was founded by King Henry VIII's Lord Chancellor of England, Cardinal Thomas Wolsey! That in itself is very exciting, in my opinion! It was founded in 1524 and originally called Cardinal College - obviously named after Wolsey himself. Like Hampton Court, he clearly intended to show his magnificence, wealth, and love of learning - He was, after all, a product of Oxford, having graduated from Magdalen College - another gorgeous Oxford school. The founding of his own college was a great undertaking, and one that could only increase his already-impressive status. He was not only one of the wealthiest men in England, but also one of the most powerful. It was said during his life (and during the time that he was favored and loved by the King), that he was more a King of England than King Henry VIII himself!

In order to build "Cardinal College," Wolsey first had to acquire permission from the Pope to suppress St. Frideswide's Monastery in 1524 and use its lands to build upon and fund the new college. Some parts of the monastery do still exist and make up some of the older parts of the college - the Chapter House, cloisters, and refectory. The large quadrangle in the top picture is called "Tom Quad" - named after the Great Tom Bell in the stately tower at the front of the college, later named Tom Tower). The quad itself is 264 by 261 feet and is therefore the largest quad of any Oxford college! Wolsey completed three sides to this quad during the initial building project. As Suzannah wrote in her book, "the college was so impressive that Thomas Cromwell proclaimed in 1528 that, 'every man thinks the like was never seen for the largeness, beauty, sumptuous, curious and substantial building.'"
Unfortunately, in 1529, Cardinal Wolsey fell from the King's favor as a result of failing to secure the desired annulment of Henry's marriage to Katherine of Aragon. On 9 October 1529 Wolsey was indicted on a charge of "praemunire" - (allegiance to a foreign power) - namely, Rome. Because of his swift fall from grace, Wolsey was forced to hand over all of his properties to the King - including Cardinal College. Again, according to Suzannah, "he did this willingly, saying: 'I would all the world knew that I have nothing but it is his [Henry's] of right, for by him, and of him I have received all that I have: therefore it is of convenience and reason, that I render unto his Majesty the same again with all my heart.'"
And that was the end of Cardinal Wolsey's involvement in the college. Apparently after the Cardinal's fall (and death), the college was known for some time as "King Henry VIII's College," and finally named Christ Church College by King Henry in the year 1546 - one year before his death.

But that's not the end of Christ Church's royal involvement! During the English Civil War, it was used as a royalist stronghold and was briefly used as King Charles I's court. Now that is an interesting thought, isn't it? What is now just a regular college of Oxford University was once, essentially, a palace! And it certainly looks the part - it is the largest and one of the most beautiful colleges of any that I've seen here in Oxford. The great quadrangle that I mentioned earlier was finally finished after the restoration of the monarchy during the reign of Charles I's son, King Charles II.
Christ Church College today is arguably the most popular college at Oxford University, and it certainly has a rich and interesting history to accompany it. Among its alumni are thirteen British prime ministers. It sits right in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Oxford, and is therefore in everyone's view as they scurry around from one place to another in this fabulous city. It is also quite well known for being filmed in the Harry Potter series - the Great Hall at Hogwarts is actually the dining hall at Christ Church! Though in reality, a beautiful portrait of King Henry VIII stands right in the center of the far wall. Too bad they didn't include that at Hogwarts...
I shall try to contain my envy of my fellow study abroad students who call Christ Church their academic home this semester, but it is hard when it is so richly steeped in Tudor history! I suppose I should just be grateful that I can walk by it every day and enjoy the view, and to envision it almost 500 years ago when it was one of Cardinal Wolsey's greatest achievements.

Sources:

Lipscomb, Suzannah: "A Visitor's Companion to Tudor England"

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My Trip to Hampton Court Palace

9/6/2012

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Today was quite honestly one of the most exciting days of my life. Since I was about fourteen, I've been dreaming about my visit to Hampton Court Palace, and until I came to study at Oxford University this semester, I had absolutely no idea when that would be. However, I was very excited to discover the day I got here that our study abroad group was taking an organized trip to the palace today and I was SO excited, I could barely contain myself! After reading about the palace and its Tudor history for years, I already knew quite a bit about this grade A Tudor location - the best representation of a Tudor palace and definitely one of the most most well-maintained historical buildings in all of England. My poor housemates had to endure my excited banter for the past few days as I spewed out random bits of information like "Henry VIII's fifth wife is said to haunt the palace!" and "Henry's only legitimate son and successor Edward VI was born there!" - luckily they took it good-heartedly and actually asked me questions about the palace and the Tudor monarchs who lived there - My whole house is really getting used to the fact that I'm a history nerd and they keep calling me the "Tudor expert."
Well, needless-to-say, the moment we arrived at Hampton Court and I caught a glimpse of the palace for the first time, I was speechless. No pictures can possibly do it justice - you just have to see it in real life. It is absolutely the most beautiful, ornate, and extravagant palace I can imagine, and it's easy to see why Henry VIII loved it so much and wanted it for himself after Cardinal Wolsey's downfall. It's also very easy to imagine yourself as a Tudor courtier, walking up to the palace for the first time and feeling excited and terrified all at once - because this palace absolutely captures and represents the magnificence and splendor that was King Henry VIII. It's absolutely fantastic.
Of course, not all the palace is dedicated to King Henry VIII and the Tudor period - though wouldn't that be great? One of the first exhibits I went through was William III's Apartments - (This is William of Orange, as in "William and Mary," the co-monarchs of the Stuart dynasty who overthrew Mary's father, James II). Though I knew virtually nothing about him before walking through his rooms, I found the exhibits very interesting and learned quite a lot about protocol and etiquette during the late Stuart period. The design, artwork, and elegance is very different from that of the Tudor period - but just as beautiful in my opinion.

The picture to the right is from William III's second (and more formal) presence chamber, where members of nobility and the council could meet with him. Apparently William was an exceptionally private person and hated living in the public eye, so he actually hated meetings like this and very infrequently sat in this chair. He did have one other presence chamber, which came before this one, as well as a public and very elegant bedchamber - which he apparently rarely used, because he preferred to sleep hidden away in a small room down the back stairs. I learned that public living for the monarch was a very French idea, and it certainly doesn't seem like William enjoyed it. He also had a private study and a beautiful drawing room, as well as a gorgeous dining chamber - where, although he could entertain several guests at a time, he usually preferred to eat either on his own or with one or two close friends. This closed-offness seems to have stemmed very much from the death of his wife, Mary, and it appears that after she died in 1694, William plummeted into a dark depression - in addition to failing health. So it's understandable that William wanted to separate himself from the rest of court, though of course as King he could only separate himself so much. I definitely learned quite a bit about him and his court by walking through these ornate rooms and listening to my audio guide, and I'd love to research him a bit more. This was an unexpectedly great part of the palace, in my opinion.
Walking into Henry VIII's Great Hall was the moment I had been waiting for! It was absolutely beautiful and easy to imagine rows of courtiers and noblemen dressed to the nines and dining in the presence of King Henry and one of his many wives. Although the Hall was nowhere near as elegant and colorful as it was back in the 1500's, it was still absolutely lovely to look at and walk through. Evidently, during Henry's reign, the ceiling would have been painted vibrant blue, gold, and red to highlight the magnificence of himself and his court. There was also a gorgeous stained glass immortalization of Henry himself, set into a large window at the back of the Hall - where Henry would have had full view of it as he dined.

After walking through the beautiful Great Hall, we entered the Great Watching Chamber - where Tudor courtiers would sit and socialize, play games and music, and of course trip over themselves in bows and curtsies whenever Henry would walk through. The ceiling of this room was absolutely spectacular - and if you looked carefully you could see the emblems of Queen Jane Seymour amidst the gold molding. This room was actually finished in the year 1537 - the year Jane died after giving birth to Henry's son, Edward. Through the Great Watching Chamber, we entered the Processional Gallery, which led to several different rooms and held a beautiful and famous painting of Henry VIII. From there, we entered the Haunted Gallery - where Catherine Howard ran screaming for Henry when she was informed that she was under house arrest. Unfortunately for her, Henry was at chapel at the time and did not hear her as she frantically darted around courtiers and guards, and she never again saw her husband. Perhaps if she had reached him, she would have been successful in pleading for her life - but instead, she was beheaded only months later. Now, guests report hearing and seeing her ghost in this gallery, and although I didn't experience anything, I did certainly think that the gallery felt spooky - and it's easy to imagine that it's haunted. I definitely believe it, and in fact another girl in our study abroad program caught two orbs in one of her photos of a room right off the Haunted Gallery.
Possibly my favorite part of Henry VIII's Apartments was the Chapel Royal, which I had just enough time to walk down the center aisle and turn back around - (unfortunately we were running late to catch our bus). Although I was in there for only a few minutes, I definitely had an emotional moment while walking up to the altar. Thinking about the masses that were held in that chapel for Henry and his Queens, the baptism of Edward VI, and the hours of praying for the souls of the victims of Henry's axeman - I absolutely felt like I was transported back to the 16th century. Part of that could have been the fact that there was beautiful soft choral music playing from the altar, which gave the place a very authentic feeling. In any case, I could have sat in that chapel for hours and just taken it all in.

I was also very excited to find the entwined initials of Henry and Anne Boleyn - "AH" in the Anne Boleyn Gateway. Of course, as we know, Henry married his third wife Jane Seymour only eleven days after Anne Boleyn's execution - therefore Henry wanted absolutely no trace of his second wife by the time Jane walked down the aisle. His palace staff was frantic trying to remove the engraved initials of Henry and Anne, but history shows that they missed a few! There are very clearly two squares of this ceiling showing "AH" and another in the Great Hall against the back wall. They are discreet, so it's possible that they went unnoticed during the rest of Henry's time at court - and aren't we fortunate that they are there today? What a beautiful and exciting slip for the palace staff to have made! Here, even though we know the marriage of Henry and Anne ended in tragedy, their marriage is immortalized in parts of this beautiful palace.
After we finished touring the apartments of Henry VIII, we went to the new and temporary Stuart exhibition called "The Wild, the Beautiful, and the Damned" - about the mistresses and beautiful ladies of the Stuart court. This exhibit was absolutely lovely, and I wish I could have taken pictures, but they were forbidden. It included beautiful portraits of some of the most notorious and well-known ladies, such as Barbara Villiers, Frances Stuart, Nell Gwynn, Louise de Kerouaille, and many others. These ladies were present and admired at the courts of Charles II, James II, William and Mary, and Anne - the last of the Stuart monarchs. The exhibit was beautifully and tastefully done - gorgeous portraits and educational plaques explained the opulence, sensuality, and debauchery of the Stuart court - and for me, having just recently developed a great interest in the Stuart dynasty it was a wonderful addition to my visit to the palace.

Definitely one of the most popular parts of Hampton Court is the beautiful and ornate Knot Garden - which I believe was designed in an Elizabethan fashion. The fountains, flowers, statues, and topiary were everything you would imagine they would be, and I could absolutely envision a Queen walking through the garden with her ladies and little dogs. This was one part of the palace that I couldn't wait to visit and I'm so glad I had the time. I also had the pleasure of walking through the small Tudor Garden - which contains the heraldic beasts of the Tudor dynasty and grows herbs and plants that were available and popular during the 16th century. I was especially excited to see that white and red roses were in the garden, (though of course they're not blooming right now), to represent the Tudor dynasty's roots in the Lancastrian and Yorkist houses.
The other garden we walked in was the Great Fountain Garden directly to the back of the palace. The enormous fountain was installed by William III and can be seen from some of his rooms. There were costumed Stuart gentlemen and ladies walking around this garden while I was there, and there was also a beautiful horse-drawn carriage giving garden tours. If only I had the time to do that!
So, those are the highlights from my wonderful day at Hampton Court Palace. Of course, I spent a little more time than I might have needed to in Henry VIII's sections of the palace, and therefore I missed some of the other exhibits - that's the downside of sightseeing with a big group, because you're held to a schedule. I missed the Georgian Private Apartments and the Apartments of Mary II (William's wife and Queen). Because of that, I feel a very pressing need to return to Hampton Court before I head back to the States in December. I'm sure I can find a bit of time to make the trip back to Surrey between now and then. Not only would I like to see the exhibits I didn't have a chance to see today - I would also like to spend more time admiring the Tudor apartments, as well as sitting in the Chapel Royal for a while as I mentioned before. The Maze, I hear, is also a place worth visiting amidst the gardens of the palace - There just wasn't enough time today!
If I do get the pleasure of returning to Hampton Court in the next few months, I will be sure to post another blog post to let you know about the other parts of the palace. In the meantime, I hope you'll enjoy viewing my photos as much as I enjoyed taking them!

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Broad Street Protestant Martyr Memorial, Oxford

9/3/2012

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Today I accomplished my first Tudor location visit since arriving in Oxford. This one was actually quite convenient, since the spot I was looking for is only about a ten minute walk from my house in the south of Oxford. I read in Suzannah Lipscomb's newest book "A Visitor's Companion to Tudor England" that a Protestant martyr memorial was located on Broad Street outside of Balliol College, one of the many colleges that makes up the University of Oxford. It was very easy to find, and the main attraction at this site is a small, understated cobblestone cross in the middle of the street, right between Balliol and the Buttery hotel. Any unsuspecting person walking by would probably think nothing of this small memorial - but it is actually quite a significant spot in Oxford. This cross marks the area in which three important leaders of the Protestant Reformation were burnt at the stake by order of the very Catholic Queen Mary I. These men were Hugh Latimer, Bishop of Worcester; Nicholas Ridley, Bishop of London; and Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury. These men were known as the "Oxford Martyrs" and they were burnt in the years 1555 and 1556. Of course, as I've blogged about before, Archbishop Cranmer was a man that had crossed Mary Tudor before - by legally annulling the marriage of her parents, King Henry VIII and Katherine of Aragon, and paving the way for Anne Boleyn's rise and the break between England and the Catholic Church of Rome.

So when Mary Tudor ascended the throne, Archbishop Cranmer was understandably on her hit list. Because he had supported Mary's rival, Lady Jane Grey, he was technically a traitor to the Crown, legally. But that wasn't enough for Mary - she was determined to have him convicted and executed as a heretic. Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley were all imprisoned together at the Tower of London before being moved to Oxford, where they were separated. They were cross-examined separately in the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin (the official church of the University today), in April 1554 - and of course they were all found guilty when they refused to accept that the bread and wine in church truly became the body and blood of Christ during the process of Transubstantiation. On 16 October 1555, Ridley and Latimer were burnt on what is now Broad Street, where the cross lays in the street. Latimer's last words were: "Be of good comfort, Master Ridley, and play the man. We shall this day light such a candle, by God's grace, in England, as I trust shall never be put out." Although Latimer apparently died quickly, Ridley suffered for quite a long time, and poor Cranmer was forced to watch. One can only imagine that seeing such suffering, as well as anticipating his own impending execution, would have terrified him.

Because of his fear, Cranmer made several official recantations of his Protestant faith over the next several months, but Queen Mary still insisted that he would be burnt at the stake. On the day he was to be executed, he was brought to the University Church to pray aloud and announce his belief in the Catholic faith instead of the heretical Protestant faith. Although he began praying the way he was expected to, halfway through he changed the direction of his speech entirely, exclaiming "As for the Pope, I refuse him, as Christ's enemy, an antichrist with all his false doctrine!" Of course, he was immediately pulled from the pulpit and dragged through the streets of Oxford to the same spot where his friends had been burnt to death months prior. Obviously distressed with himself for lying about his faith, he stretched his hand into the flames before him and repeated "This hand hath offended!" (referring to the hand which had signed the recantation). As he burnt at the stake on the very spot where the cobblestone cross now so unceremoniously lays, he cried out "Jesus, receive my spirit... I see the heavens open and Jesus standing at the right hand of God!"
I know I've blogged about Thomas Cranmer's execution before, but it seems so much more vital to think about and remember it now that I've visited the exact place that he died. It was so moving and surreal to stand just feet away from a spot that holds such bloody memories of some of the most influential and important men of the Protestant Reformation.

When I took a left off of Broad Street, just before reaching the cobblestone cross, I encountered a very tall, ornate monument on St. Giles Street - completely devoted to these three martyred men. The writing on the memorial reads:

"To the Glory of God and in grateful commemoration of His servants: Thomas Cranmer, Nicholas Ridley, Hugh Latimer, prelates of the Church of England, who near this spot yielded their bodies to be burned bearing witness to the sacred truths which they had affirmed and maintained against the errors of the Church of Rome, and rejoicing that to them it was given not only to believe in Christ, but also to suffer for His sake."

What an interesting and exciting day for me, though of course it's very thought-provoking and emotional. I sincerely hope that Hugh Latimer, Nicholas Ridley, and Thomas Cranmer are resting in peace, and that the people of Oxford might spare them all a thought as they walk past these memorials every day.

Sources:

Lipscomb, Suzannah "A Visitor's Companion to Tudor England" (pages 113-116)

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Paying a Visit to King Richard III in Leicester

Windsor Castle - A British History Lover's Wonderland

Visiting Shakespeare in Stratford-upon-Avon

My Tower of London Experience

Christ Church College, Oxford

My Trip to Hampton Court Palace

Broad Street Protestant Martyr Memorial, Oxford

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